The “Lion of Ajara” has given us a guide, a hacking, chain smoking, ex-communist party member. We get stopped constantly because the minivan has Tbilisi plates. I have feared military vehicles ever since I was hauled off in Turkey. But here every vehicle is military, or at least made by the Russian military for civilian use. So I’m still curious about this mysterious “guide” hasn’t spoken to me for two days. He finally asks a question through Guram:
“Is Reagan dead yet?” It turns out he was a former communist party official and he blames Reagan for the collapse of the Soviet Union.